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  1. iLO4 v.2.78 available. HPE requires users update to this version immediately. https://support.hpe.com/hpesc/public/km/product/5390291/Product#t=DriversandSoftware&sort=%40hpescuniversaldate descending&layout=table&numberOfResults=25
    4 points
  2. My thorough analysis now complete, I find Windows 11 continues the 'fine' tradition of $MSFT releases: Vista crap W7 good W8 crap W10 good W11 crap To qualify as crap you have to achieve at least one, but preferably more, of: - obsolete a large proportion of the installed base (even though your stated corporate aim is to have the same version running everywhere) - introduce a reduced functionality UI start - promote revenue-earning crapware centre-stage - fail to deliver the most popular enhancements requested by the customer contact programme e.g. tabbed Explorer, ReFS, ... Hopefully Windows 12 will be with us in 2025!
    3 points
  3. ***CRITICAL*** iLO 4 update available here. HPE requires users update to this version immediately. Potential vulnerabilities in network stack. VULNERABILITY SUMMARY A potential security vulnerability has been identified in Integrated Lights-Out 5 (iLO 5), Integrated Lights-Out 4 (iLO 4), and Integrated Lights-Out 3 (iLO 3) firmware. The vulnerability could be remotely exploited to cause memory corruption. HPE has released updated firmware to mitigate these vulnerabilities. References: CVE-2020-27337
    3 points
  4. What we've learned about the WD red fiasco is that you should be wary of weasel words in the product description and specs '5400 performance class' versus ' drive speed 5400 rpm' Here are excerpts of datasheets from two similar m2 SSD's from Samsung and from ADATA. what's missing from the ADATA that is present in the Samsung document? a description of the actual components ie controller type, Nand and dram type ADATA fails to describe what you are getting. its a marketing brochure, not a spec sheet
    3 points
  5. 3 points
  6. Win 11 Forum up and running!
    2 points
  7. My 14tb is this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-Elements-Desktop-External-Drive/dp/B07Y3KDVZH wdc wd140emfz Shucked of course. Hope this helps
    2 points
  8. I received the card and put it in my server. I can confirm that the card works in the Microserver Gen8!
    2 points
  9. You can only boot from the ODD SATA port if the B120i is enabled. The configuration listed above appears to be all drives configured as individual RAID0. This is a way to use the B120i as JBOD, individual drives. You should be able to shutdown the server, remove the SSD, connect it to a different PC and clone it to a new SSD. Install the new drive in the server and power up. The HP Dynamic Smart Array RAID Controller User Guide is a good resource for these migrations. You may need to use SSA to setup the new SSD, but the server may just pick it up. If you run into an issue you can revert back to the original SSD. Update all drivers and back up all of your data before making changes.
    2 points
  10. The host device has to have a 'esata-p' port to supply power to the client device. The regular esata doesnt have power. I dont have the specs on the n40l, but esata-p ports are uncommon, even back when the n40 was new I still have an external usb drive enclosre with a esata connector. Works great, but usb3 devices have largely obsoleted essta
    2 points
  11. They are PS1810-8G (8 Port Gigabit) switches.
    2 points
  12. If you are looking to expand storage options on the cheap, this card is very affordable and works wonders! It doesn't need extra power so it makes it ideal to connect to a USB-C Icy dock enclosure or similar. At this point, I just have a USB-C to USB-A hub and a regular HDD dock (USB 3.0) but it works at full speed. I had to do this because if I used a regular (even powered) usb-hub on the 3.0 ports I was getting disks disconnecting all the time. I have it on a W2019 server, no drivers needed. I guess it should be farily easy to pass-through on a ESXi or KVM box. This is the card: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32919110089.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.61384c9b9KW8cQ And the adapter: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32830436685.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.4c5363c0qcqhxZ All the best!
    2 points
  13. Found the solution : https://serverfault.com/a/750083/662346 ESXi has to be installed on a MBR partition, not the GPT default one.
    2 points
  14. Does your Vizio TV have an HDMI port with ARC? ARC is audio return channel. It is what allows audio from the TV to be routed to the soundbar. You would simply use the ARC port from the TV to the Soundbar input (I believe) and then connect your Blu-Ray to another HDMI input on the TV. When you view anything on the TV the sound would be routed thru the ARC port to the soundbar. Your other choice is to use an optical link between the TV an soundbar. Blu-Ray still connected to the TV. I am guessing at this point because you didn't say what you have actually tried and what the specific model of your TV is (so I am guessing what ports are available).
    2 points
  15. I've currently got an 18TB disk in mine and it works fine. As JackoUK says, I don't boot from it, just use it for storage.
    2 points
  16. Just speculating, but keywords; 'SchedulerConsole', 'HP', 'diagnostics', 'telemetrywatch' would point to an application that interacts between your printer and the manufacturer, HP. When you install most printers they ask about participating in customer use experience, sharing info with the printer vendor, toner levels, printer use, firmware version, software version and diagnostics. This is likely the scheduler trying to communicate with HP.
    2 points
  17. Once you got the drive plugged into the router, you probably need to set it up further using the admin pages of your router. I am not familiar with SRM but typically on other platforms, you need to access the admin page to add/recognize the drive, format it, and create a network file share. There may be other steps involved like adding users or setting up basic security for the file share.
    2 points
  18. A while back, I mentioned in a post that QNAP has a switch in its backup program to allow a USB drive to be ejected after a backup - This was a handy way to disconnect a backup, thus protecting it from a ransomware attack. ( or so I thought) I had wondered if there was a way to "reconnect" the drive - so I wouldnt have to go down to the server and manually turn my backup drives off and on again to reconnect. couldnt find a way at the time. Well a user on the QNAP community forum found a way, I came across this post from last fall - quote Logging in to the NAS via ssh and entering the commands: CODE: SELECT ALL echo 0 > /sys/bus/usb/devices/2-1/authorized echo 1 > /sys/bus/usb/devices/2-1/authorized makes the "ejected" USB drive reappear just as if it had been unplugged and replugged, including the start of an Auto-Backup job that has been defined for that disk, if any. Incidentally, this means that an "ejected" USB backup disk is not safe from crypto trojans. So always disconnect your backup disk physically after running a backup! unquote I tested it this evening and it works !! I had to enable SSH logins , Not a linux command line guy at all but it worked 1st time I tried it. I've since disabled SSH logins. Qnap is linux based so this may work on other systems The reason I mention this is the caution that he gave at the end. If a command line newb like me can do this, a ransomware jockey could easily "wake up" all the usb drives hooked up and left powered on your NAS. For what its worth - what I have been doing is - I put the backup drive on a smart switch ( I use TpLink Kasa). When I want to backup, I turn on the drive remotely - when it is completed and ejected from the system, I switch it off remotely. with a incremental backup , this is typically within an couple hours. I do a full "offline" backup about once a month - so I havent gotten around to automating this any further. - I guess I could use something like IFTTT or something.
    2 points
  19. I first boot into the bios and verify that all the memory and drives that should be present are recognized. also verify that the correct boot disk is selected. If this checks out, I boot into a USB stick using A light Linux distro, if it boots, check your original boot drive is readable - might be time to replace the hard drive from a hardware perspective, If I need to open the case, I will reseat every connection and test. next step would be to try a different power supply at some point, if its an arcane hardware failure, on a low end system its time to replace imho. good luck and if you find the cause let us know
    2 points
  20. @Daveis correct. QNAP has what you want. https://www.qnap.com/en-us/product/ts-451a
    2 points
  21. This offline SSA is from 2019: https://support.hpe.com/hpsc/swd/public/detail?swItemId=MTX_40057c5bb50b4197af4afdf478
    2 points
  22. Tom's Hardware ran an article that certain SSD manufacturers are changing the type of NAND flash and SSD controller without informing consumers. The changes resulted in a net loss in performance, something along the lines of a 41% reduction in copy operations as well as a 500MB/s decline in light workloads. The modifications were made after the review item has gotten accolades but without applying so much as a model or SKU change, underscoring these manufacturers' intent to hide it from the public. https://www.tomshardware.com/news/adata-and-other-ssd-makers-swapping-parts
    2 points
  23. LSI is the manufacturer of the chip used many HBA's and RAID cards. The chip used on a card will determine features, functions and driver support.
    2 points
  24. I would check all of your existing WD Reds to see if you have any that are SMR drives. SMR should not be an issue with DrivePool, but you never know. Even though WD owns Hitachi HGST I find their drives to be consistently good. Toshiba drives are good, specifically their NAS drives. Seagate NAS drives like IronWolf seems to be doing well. Best price per TB is buying WD externals and shucking them, but you can never be sure of what you will get. Depending on the drive model and the system you are putting them in, you may need to modify the 3.3v pin. I needed to add some drives to existing arrays, I picked up some 6TB SAS lightly used for $65ea and some 4TB SAS used for$35 a few months back. At some point I am sure I will get burned on used/refurbed drives, but so far so good.
    2 points
  25. Which i3 CPU are you planning to use? The MicroServer Gen8 requires ECC memory, the modules you have listed will not work. You can run four 3.5" drives in the from bays and there is an internal SATA connection to run a 2.5" drive internal. There is room for more 2.5" drives internal, but you would need to add more ports through a SATA/SAS HBA or RAID card.
    2 points
  26. This is the go to link you need with a tonne of information in for all things Gen10 Plus. https://www.servethehome.com/hpe-proliant-microserver-gen10-plus-ultimate-customization-guide/ I’ve not had any temp issues running an E-2246G and mine is under a good amount of load 24x7.
    2 points
  27. 8TB drives in service here ... ... as a BIOS machine the 1st (boot) disk must be <2TB ... ... but declaring other disks with GPT partitioning ... ... the sky is the limit.
    2 points
  28. Hey Callihan, Although I don't own a Synology that can utilize NVRAM caching, one thing is for certain and that is, that when dealing with smaller files and a lot of r/w's, caching will improve speed ALOT. If you're acessing smaller files on the NAS, it's not the network speed that is the bottleneck but your harddrive's seek-time. You can easily get a factor 10 in speed improvement on a daily basis. However, if you copy a 4Gb video file, you won't get much improvement from the cache. If I had the oppertunity to add caching to my DS620Slim, I would not hesitate to add the extra cache. Br, Bjorn
    2 points
  29. It depends on the card you are using, on my card i didn’t need to do anything. But if the card you choose doesn’t have an inbuilt switch you will need to enable PCIE bifurcation in the BIOS.
    1 point
  30. There are generally 2 sizes for HP printers, a 'normal' capacity one and an XL one, the XL one will be larger and hold more toner, they tend to be close to 3x the number of pages and double the cost. Why HP do this, I have no idea, but they've done it for as long as I can remember. Compatible cartridges can be funny, I don't use them while a printer is in warranty, even though some cartridge manufacturers will say they'll cover any warranty claims on the printer when using their carts. The other issue is, you have no idea how old a cartridge is and how many times its been refilled, so the tolerances between the rollers and gears and other parts of the cartridge could be way out and then it leak toner crap inside the printer, not a good thing..
    1 point
  31. Hello All, I've also recently purchased an ml350p. My background is electrical industrial instrumentation and control; not really a PC guy... yet. I'm working on it lol. My first job was getting my GPU to work. Struggled to find consensus or a well explained pinout with regards to using consumer GPU cards in these machines. I couldn't find the the OEM cable anywhere. It took me some time to get it working. My issue turned out to be power related. So, for other noobs getting scared off doing this like I almost was, here's what I have confirmed, using a Fluke 789: (for reference) Normal PCIe8 pinout: Pins 1,2,3 are +12V Pins 5,7,8 are 0V (GND) Pin 4 (Sense 8 pin plug) 0V (GND) Pin 6 (Sense 6 pin plug) 0V (GND) (what I found) HP PCIe Pinout (when compared to the above, using the same pin numbers) Pins 1,2,3,4 are +12V Pins 5,7,8 are 0V (GND) Pin 6 (Sense) 0V (GND) I have found references on reddit and other forums indicating that Pin 3 in unused, and its position is shifted to Pin 4. My tests show it at 12V, I'm not sure if there are some smarts in the machine that can switch this pin? Maybe mine is not standard? Consensus is that Pins 1-4 should be at 12V and Pins 5-8 at 0V or GND. I can confirm that my 6GB GTX Titan works with this mod. I modified a standard PCIe 8 to 8+6 cable by leaving the GPU side as per normal and changing the mobo side to what HP expects. I had to make a custom cable since the mine was not long enough. So I only ended up using the plugs really, I tried to remove as much of the original cable as possible, it seemed like sh** cable. Since I work in the industrial sector I used what I had access to, which was 1mm marine grade flex https://www.firstflex.co.nz/product/mst001-0/ I made it 450mm long and it was a comfortable fit. If I were to make it again, I would increase the length to 500mm for looming purposes. Next I will be working of fans. Thing sounds like an aircraft; my wife was suitably unimpressed when i brought it inside. I would like to make use of the original connectors, fan cage etc, if I can, and modify as little as possible. Maybe make a custom PCB to invert the PWM and add some current limiting for ordinary fans. If i got into full mod mode, I have a ABB commander 350 in the garage somewhere, might look cool mounted inside the unused drive bay. I have also started soldering up a custom water-block from some busbar plate I have around the place, I'll use Swagelok fittings and 1/2" Teflon tube. MPa rated, so should be fine for this pressure range ha ha. Still not figured out how to mount everything yet. Got a million other projects on so we'll see how long it takes me to get round to finishing this one. StretchNZ if you're about mate, would be nice to chat about your machine. I live in Auckland. -Jim
    1 point
  32. Thanks for sharing. Boy talk about memories... I miss all those guys Mike, Jim, John and the format of the old "Home Server Show" good times indeed.....
    1 point
  33. Looking at the connector, you should be able to use a regular sata cable to patch your connector to a drive. You will have to power the drive separately
    1 point
  34. Looks like a fail on TPM 2.0, secure boot to UEFI and CPU to me ... ... and the Gen 8 as well 😪 Agree with Al_B that the strict CPU offload looks like a land grab 😡 It'll be interesting to see how $MSFT justifies that ... I'm hoping to see lots of pushback there. End of the line in 2025 then. Can't be too disappointed though - the old Microservers have had a good run.
    1 point
  35. I loaded the v2.77 and it’s better than ever! 😀👍 I always prefer running the latest but the messed up keyboard is not something I can live with. Thanks for the tip!
    1 point
  36. The newest behind is v2.77. You should be able to see the entire history of versions by clicking on the latest version link and then reading the tab named "Revision History". Further you may read the summary of changes for each version and download ANY previous version.
    1 point
  37. They should work, they check all the boxes: 8GB UDIMM ECC DDR3 1600Mhz
    1 point
  38. The B120i uses some of the system memory for read cache. This error comes up when you have 2GB of memory. If you add more memory the issue will go away.
    1 point
  39. HP has maintenance and service guides for most devices Remove and replace starts on page 29. Battery replacement is on page 38 HP EliteBook 850 G4 Notebook PCHP ZBook 15u G4 Mobile Workstation Maintenance and Service Guide
    1 point
  40. HP Media Smart Server BIOS and HD Drive Size - Windows Home Server OEM Hardware - RESET Forums (homeservershow.com) The GEN8 Microserver is a BIOS machine, so boot to a disk less than 2TB, and use GPT partitions for all disks larger than 2TB. The GPT disk size limit is 2^63 KB - not something we'll have to worry about in our lifetime.
    1 point
  41. If it is an unbuffered DIMM with ECC 1600mhz it should work, but mixing DIMMs can cause issues.
    1 point
  42. Bit late to the party, but it has been a while since I visited these forums on a regular basis and I've only just seen this whilst researching a related topic. I have had this problem across a variety of systems and Windows updates and have found the instructions here to be really useful: https://sbsland.me/2020/11/04/fix-windows-10-update-and-small-business-essentials-connector/ (NOTE that the site is primarily in German but this issue is so widespread that there is an English language version of this one topic).
    1 point
  43. Have you tried clearing the CMOS? The chirps and and beeps you hear will be coming from a buzzer located besides the CMOS battery (black cylinder with a hole on top). You'll hear repeating chirps if the system is on a boot loop. Somewhat unrelated to your hardware but I, too, recently upgraded from an i5-4570 to an E3-1285v4 on my home-built server (Gigabyte Z97-D3H). I initially encountered the boot loop (slow repeating chirps) until I decided to remove all power and cleared the CMOS. After that, everything booted up to BIOS/UEFI. I loaded up Optimized defaults, and It's been running smoothly for almost a week now. There's also a remote chance that the new CPU has a fault in one of its two memory channels. If none of the suggestions above help, I'm afraid that the only recourse to validate this is to test and isolate using a similar or compatible motherboard.
    1 point
  44. Upgraded to E-2246G. Night and day difference from the stock E-2224 Xeon CPU. Don’t know why they didn’t include this one in first place. Like a completely different performance improvement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  45. Ok, who here had a Trash 80? I mean TRS-80? It's on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Radio-Shack-TRS-80-Color-Computer-Appliance-and-Light-Controller/313231809317?
    1 point
  46. Wauw! Forum upgrade! Nice to see some love for the forums. Editor looks nicer. I don’t mind the extra tan so no worries about the theme. No bugs encountered so far, and the app wasn’t available in the EU (or at least not the Danish 🍎 AppStore) anyway. I think you are going to skip/ignore the social media stuff Bjorn
    1 point
  47. I took a look at Asus gear a few years back. It performed the basics well but was not as polished or feature rich as a Synology. Sheer backup target or storage would be fine.
    1 point
  48. Ok so here it is, I purchased a 30mmx30xmmx7mm fan, USB to 3-pin fan cable and the USB fan speed boost/control. I adapted the fan and the USB cable to directly connect them and shorten them to just the right length. You have to be careful with routing the cable (its best to tuck it under the daughter board frame) otherwise it can get hung up when inserting the motherboard back into the case. Fortunately when it came to mounting the fan, I had a leftover anti-vibration double-sided sticky foam pad from a water pump for water-cooling which I never bothered using, so I cut this down and used it to stick it to the motherboard and it also nicely raised the fan to the height I wanted it at and it also prevents the SATA connector from blocking the airflow, win, win! I then added a couple of cable ties through the end of the NVMe card and fan to keep the fan upright. To be honest I wasn't expecting much from just a 30mm fan, but I'm quite frankly amazed that its pretty much managed to shave 20c off the temps and take the NVMes from 'very high' to 'normal' i.e. 67c to 47c. The temperatures will no doubt raise in the summer but they are much more under control now and the performance difference is definitely evident (much to my amazement). I have ordered a 30mmx30mmx10mm fan to see if I can manage to fit that instead and further increase the airflow now that I have proved this solution is making a significant benefit. I have also ordered a slightly different speed controller as whilst this one does 'fit' it comes into contact with the side of the case and makes fitting and removing the case too difficult for my liking.
    1 point
  49. Yes I have, but oddly the server only seems to register the 2 SSDs in HP Storage Administrator for some reason, even though my 2 x 6TB HDDs are usable in the OS. Bitlocker therefore also only seems to be able to be configured on the SSDs also.
    1 point
  50. Ok, it's time to solve all problems with overheating. Stuff: 1x Noctua NF-A8-5V fan with USB power adaptor cable 1x Akasa 3D Fan Guard AK-FG08-SL https://imgur.com/a/7npqgdc Now LSI 9271-4i temperature approximately no more than 57 degrees.
    1 point
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