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overcoat

Active CPU cooling for the Gen8

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Cap_peeps

Hi Radaxian, it is really MacGyverish solution :D. Just wanted to ask you, you are taking the constant power from the molex connector, right ? Only the GND and +12V. No PWM or tacho involved ? 

 

Because I would like to have original case fan with a new CPU fan (same as yours - Noctua NF-A9x14 pwm) added and working toghether. And expected to see the CPU fan speed adjusting according the main case fan as overcoat wrote on start of this thread. 

 

However I am facing some issues. And the main case fan still not working. 

Thing which confusing me most is that in one thread I'm reading about the looping yellow cable with ground. In another, using all wires in original 6 pin to usual 4 pin fan connector. 

 

With this:

 rdfan.png

Both fans are working when I use Y - fan splitter for 3pin cpu fan and 4pin original case fan. 

 

But according this: 

y-splitter-microserver.png

it is not.

 

Everywhere I see that I shouldnt use the +12V power from the 6 pin motherboard connector. That it might cause excessive power and harm the hardware. Instead to use the source from molex connector. 

 

Also I found the solution with looping the yellow cable (RD) with GND to fake a fan signal, which I am not sure if understand correctly.

(It says no fan attached ?) Overcoat also said that he had to do it. But he used another more silent fan.

nofan.png

So I guess that best would be ask for a first important question: Is it even possible to have an original case FAN with new Noctua NF-A9x14 pwm cpu FAN cabled with Y splitter together (without any arduino circuit bord) ? And CPU fan will adjust the speed according the original case FAN ? Can original case fan works as usual with new cpu fan added ? (Not at max speed?) If yes, which schema should I use ?

 

Many thanks for any kind of advice or notice if I missed something. 

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Cap_peeps

OOOK moders,

I probably found the solution which is quite simple if I got it correctly. I scrolling on this forum for hours and just googled this guide: 

It is saying that only blue cable can be used if you want to add a new fan and you want to keep the original fan in place.

Since I cannot power the Delta case fan (from any misterious reason I dont understand) from molex connector. I just realized that this fan is working good with 6 pin connector so why I need to even touch it ? I will grab only the blue cable and use it for the new CPU fan.

 

And it looks like this solution works fine. Only thing which is confusing me little is, that during the bootup process the Delta case fan is spinning at top speed I guess but the new cpu fan not. It spins with top speed if the blue cable is not connected (because only the GND and +12V are used). So not sure if the CPU fan is copying the Delta case fan behaviour. So it seems that the PWM only slows down the new CPU fan. And not sure if it is ok or not.

 

But if it is the best result I can get, I am ok with it then. After all, I think that this is a case according dittohead scheme.

 

What do you think ? 

 

Many thanks

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dittohead

If you not connect PWM, fan will rotate with max RPM

 

Why you not connect +12 for fans from MB connector?

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Cap_peeps

I am not using the +12V from MB connector because I read this text from overcoat: "Only what I said in an earlier post "negating any risk of drawing excessive current through the mobo". It's a common, perhaps old school technique when adding fans for overclocking"

 

from this thread: 

I thought that it was the correct way. So now I am not sure if it is ok or not. 

 

Anyway, with MB connector it works but with molex not. So I decided to leave the MB connector for case fan and molex +12V for new Noctua fan. 

 

About the PWM, if I connect it, will it also increase the speed of fun if necessary ? because when I did a "simple" sound check, whenever I connected the PWM, it only slowed down the cpu fan. And I expected to see the new CPU fan spinning with full speed at least during the inicial boot up process (as the case fan was spinning - on full speed, I guess).

 

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Thomas97

Hi all

Sorry to bother replying to an old thread, I hope some of you might be able to help me out.

I hae just upgraded the pu in my miroserver gen8 to a E3-1240V2 (I am running Plex and need transoding).

I also added the akasa active cooler, I'm running that through the unused Berg connector (it's always at 100% but I don't mind, I don't like it moving with the temperature sensor in case as it's far from the cpu and it might trigger fans too late).

 

However, my temps are nower near what you have there. Max was after 3 mins of 100% cpu transcoding 4K to 320p.

 

Any suggestions?

Thank you all for any advice you may want to give me :)

 

Capture.PNG

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Trig0r

Thats pretty hot that is..

Are you sure the cooler is actually seated properly on the CPU?

There is a better HP heatsink thats rated at 65w which is near on the 69w that ARK says your CPU is, but if you've already swapped to the Akasa unit something's gone wrong somewhere to hit those temps, IMHO...

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Thomas97
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Trig0r said:

Thats pretty hot that is..

Are you sure the cooler is actually seated properly on the CPU?

There is a better HP heatsink thats rated at 65w which is near on the 69w that ARK says your CPU is, but if you've already swapped to the Akasa unit something's gone wrong somewhere to hit those temps, IMHO...

 

Thank you for replying to me.

Indeed, that is what made me move carefully in the first place. I don't want to damage the CPU.

I did not know about the HP 65W heat sink, though it seems to cost quite a bit and having the Akasa in place I would like to try to solve this issue with what I have now, but I will buy that if things do not get better, thank you for mentioning that.

 

I have now checked the temps via the iLO interface and this are the readings after 5 minutes of 100% load and after 2 mins of idle.

In the right screen you see HWmonitor via remote desktop on the server. However, other monitoring software showed the same readings as HWmonitor (the first thing I thought about was a bad reading).

Who should I trust?

 

 

Capture2.PNG

Capture.PNG

Edited by Thomas97
Media missing

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Trig0r

You able to power the board up on the tray out of the chassis, are you sure the fans spinning, also, is it spinning in the right direction.

Personally I'd take the akasa off of the CPU and see what state the thermal compound is in, you'll be able to see straight off if you have a decent contact between CPU and heatsink.

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radaxian
On 7/1/2020 at 2:06 AM, Cap_peeps said:

 

 

About the PWM, if I connect it, will it also increase the speed of fun if necessary ? because when I did a "simple" sound check, whenever I connected the PWM, it only slowed down the cpu fan. And I expected to see the new CPU fan spinning with full speed at least during the inicial boot up process (as the case fan was spinning - on full speed, I guess).

 

 

 

That's becuase the HP Microservers don't use a standardized PWM signal... it's basically inverted. So a 3rd party fan like a Noctua will actually slow down when the PWM signal increases as it's expecting an oposite waveform. It's been discussed on this forum before and on external sites. You ca convert the signal but it's far more complex that simply wiring in the PWM and Signal wires to the correct pins.

 

My advice is to keep the rear Delta fan in place as it works fine and isn't that noisy when running slow.

CPU fan - Whichever you choose just manually run it off 12v but use a common Noctua low speed adapter which dramatically cuts the RPM. My CPU fan spins at about 50% 24/7 and is nice n quiet and also does a great job of active cooling the stock heatsink with a 1270 v2.

 

 

 

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radaxian
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Thomas97 said:

 

I have now checked the temps via the iLO interface and this are the readings after 5 minutes of 100% load and after 2 mins of idle.

In the right screen you see HWmonitor via remote desktop on the server. However, other monitoring software showed the same readings as HWmonitor (the first thing I thought about was a bad reading).

Who should I trust?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can I ask a simple question? Did you remove and replace the thermal paste? It needs to be fresh paste and spread thinly over the whole flat metal area. The screws should squash it down and spread it out but a quick visual check will let you know if the paste is making good contact to both the CPU and heatsink.

 

The ILO temp sensor is slow to respond and seems a bit innacurate from my use.

Core Temp seems more accurate with the chipset in this Gen8

HWMonitor is ok and should read the same as Core Temp

 

 

Edited by radaxian
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