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HP Proliant ML350p G8 Watercooling!


RyanG8
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High Bruno welcome to the club. I hope you do take the time to follow trough and publish your modifications as weel so we can all learn from each other.

 

Just for all of you to know I just succeeded under Proxmox in passing trough a PCIE Slot with an LSI HBA Controller into a Freenas VM.

Yes I'm running Freenas virtualized and am happy with it.  You can find the topic here.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi everyone, I'm new here and came across this thread while searching how to make the fans quieter on my G8 ML350p. I bought it second hand last December and have slowly been upgrading it. 

 

Originally came with 1x E5-2620 (6 core, 15MB cache), 24GB ram. Now has 128GB of ram (8x 16GB sticks), plus a Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER. Upgraded the CPU to E5-2660 (8 core, 20MB cache). All 128GB of ram is allocated to CPU 1. I scored the 2260 CPUs as a pair, but only have one heatsink at the moment. 

 

Managed to install Win10 without any of the issues other seem to be having. Powering the GPU was a challenge. The 460W PSUs didn't have the juice to do it, so I've currently got a separate 1000W ATX supply powering just the GPU, with the motherboard sense on the PSU jumpered. 

 

To do, in no particular order:

 

1. The fan mods on this thread.

2. Install second 2660 CPU, and reallocate ram 64/64 even split. This will require getting the correct heatsink, or sourcing an aftermarket one, or modding something.

3. USB 3.0/3.1 PCI card and front panel.

4. Swap out the 460W PSUs for 1200W versions, so I can remove the ATX bodge-job.

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  • 6 months later...

Hello everyone.

I'm thinking of completing the HD bays, completing the two bays that come empty. Does anyone know any place that sells cage (660351-001) at an affordable price?

Converting from USD to BRL would be cheaper if I buy another server here, or sell mine.

 

Ps: in time, did anyone make a mod to use the 18 discs?

 

thanks

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  • 5 months later...

Hello all,

 

I’m just wondering how you’re all getting on with your cooling modifications…

 

I picked up an ML350p recently and as you’re all well aware it is much too loud for home use. I have mine in the loft and can hear those fans from a room or two away.

 

I’ve ordered a pair of NH-U9DX i4 coolers and I figure I’ll just find a 12V rail and run them at 100% in the short term. Longer term I’m looking to add a couple of intake & exhaust fans and a controller of some description.

 

Any advice or progress reports would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

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Hello All,

 

I've also recently purchased an ml350p. My background is electrical industrial instrumentation and control; not really a PC guy... yet. I'm working on it lol. My first job was getting my GPU to work. Struggled to find consensus or a well explained pinout with regards to using consumer GPU cards in these machines. I couldn't find the the OEM cable anywhere. It took me some time to get it working. My issue turned out to be power related. So, for other noobs getting scared off doing this like I almost was, here's what I have confirmed, using a Fluke 789:

 

(for reference)

Normal PCIe8 pinout:

Pins 1,2,3 are +12V

Pins 5,7,8 are 0V (GND)

Pin 4 (Sense 8 pin plug) 0V (GND)

Pin 6 (Sense 6 pin plug) 0V (GND)

 

(what I found)

HP PCIe Pinout (when compared to the above, using the same pin numbers)

Pins 1,2,3,4 are +12V

Pins 5,7,8 are 0V (GND)

Pin 6 (Sense) 0V (GND)

 

415688018_PCIeML350PGPUpinout.thumb.jpg.726570b7465dbbb30bc0e531d05b68f1.jpg

 

I have found references on reddit and other forums indicating that Pin 3 in unused, and its position is shifted to Pin 4. My tests show it at 12V, I'm not sure if there are some smarts in the machine that can switch this pin? Maybe mine is not standard? Consensus is that Pins 1-4 should be at 12V and Pins 5-8 at 0V or GND.  I can confirm that my 6GB GTX Titan works with this mod.

 

I modified a standard PCIe 8 to 8+6 cable by leaving the GPU side as per normal and changing the mobo side to what HP expects. I had to make a custom cable since the mine was not long enough. So I only ended up using the plugs really, I tried to remove as much of the original cable as possible, it seemed like sh** cable. Since I work in the industrial sector I used what I had access to, which was 1mm marine grade flex https://www.firstflex.co.nz/product/mst001-0/ I made it 450mm long and it was a comfortable fit. If I were to make it again, I would increase the length to 500mm for looming purposes. 

 

Next I will be working of fans. Thing sounds like an aircraft; my wife was suitably unimpressed when i brought it inside. I would like to make use of the original connectors, fan cage etc, if I can, and modify as little as possible. Maybe make a custom PCB to invert the PWM and add some current limiting for ordinary fans. If i got into full mod mode, I have a ABB commander 350 in the garage somewhere, might look cool mounted inside the unused drive bay. I have also started soldering up a custom water-block from some busbar plate I have around the place, I'll use Swagelok fittings and 1/2" Teflon tube. MPa rated, so should be fine for this pressure range ha ha. Still not figured out how to mount everything yet. Got a million other projects on so we'll see how long it takes me to get round to finishing this one.

 

StretchNZ if you're about mate, would be nice to chat about your machine. I live in Auckland.

 

-Jim

 

Edited by JamesT
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just reporting back to say that I've successfully quietened my ML350p thanks to the advice given here.

 

I decided to remove the whole fan cage and bridged the relevant connections on the little PCB rather than fiddling with the fan connectors. I didn't bother adding a grounding strap to the chassis like XeonUnicorn, but might do that later on.

 

As others have mentioned, I had to remove the CPU retaining clamps to get the coolers to sit flush. This probably isn't ideal as the coolers are now the only thing holding the CPUs in place, but as this is just a homelab project I can live with it.

 

For the time being, I'm running the fans from a cheap fan splitter board that takes a SATA power supply. At some point I plan on adding some more case fans and an arduino based fan controller, possibly afancontrol (https://afancontrol.readthedocs.io).

 

I ran the server with the lid off for a little bit while testing a GPU and managed to trigger a thermal shutdown due to the HD controller hitting 100C. It's ok with the lid on however, sugessting the noctua coolers do provide adequate airfolw through the chassis.

 

After replacing the CPU coolers, I realised that the power supply fans actually make quite a bit of noise too, so I replaced those with Noctua fans and now I finally have the server at an acceptable noise level.

The colour coding on my PSU fans was different to that mentioned by ook4mi earlier in this thread. I checked the pinout with an oscilloscope and the tachometer wire was white on mine IIRC.

 

IMG_2533.thumb.JPEG.786d14b6c5056a31a34468cda80610ae.JPEG

 

IMG_2537.thumb.JPEG.95552ca9ecaaa2526ed7eaf819037f48.JPEG

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/3/2020 at 9:43 PM, XeonUnicorn said:

 

Basically the black wires are connected and enclosed in shrink fit, the yellows are soldered to one side of the controller PCB to the copper plating as the "chassis" connection and the controller is earthed back to the chassis via the yellow wire you can see conveniently using a thumb screw into the existing card extender assembly mount. As for the pin switches for the fan louvers they are bridged on the controller using solder, we did this to ensure no erroneous errors in post as we didn't know if the system needs to "see" them also. The whole lot is tucked away under the shrink fit seen in the pic and hot glue was used on one side to make it nice and secure in the MB header.

 

Hi Glob.

 

Based off your success, I am doing the same cooling modifications to my machine. I have ordered 2x Noctua NA FC1 as my fan controllers, Noctua NH-U9DX i4 coolers as well as another 2x 92mm redux fans to position somewhat over the ram lanes. Once I have learned some more, I could get a PWM signal to the fan controllers and let the machine choose its own speed accordingly.

 

I take it you did the above mod to the HP fan controller? I am a little confused as to what XeonUnicorn meant when they wrote "the yellows are soldered to one side of the controller PCB to the copper plating as the "chassis" connection" do they mean soldered to ground? If you (correctly) presume that I know nothing, could you explain in simple terms what you did to yours before I disassemble my fan cage? When XeonUnicorn mentioned the pin switches for louvres and bridging them on the pcb, can I then presume these switches to be normally closed? I'm flying a little blind here; turns out biting off and chewing are two different things lol.

 

I have also ordered this lga2011 ILM assembly from Aliexpress. I couldn't find a narrow ILM version, but it looks to me like the baseplate is the only bit that differs between the two assemblies; I'm hoping I can use the cpu retention portion of the assembly to avoid having to use only the cooler to hold the CPU down. only 20 bucks wasted if it cant be used.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000388495792.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.60c751d0Dmqpsl&algo_pvid=8664ccec-3cae-4cf0-aad6-a6e6fa432e5a&algo_exp_id=8664ccec-3cae-4cf0-aad6-a6e6fa432e5a-8&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"10000001587134379"} 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

- James

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/10/2021 at 6:34 PM, JamesT said:

 

Hi Glob.

 

Based off your success, I am doing the same cooling modifications to my machine. I have ordered 2x Noctua NA FC1 as my fan controllers, Noctua NH-U9DX i4 coolers as well as another 2x 92mm redux fans to position somewhat over the ram lanes. Once I have learned some more, I could get a PWM signal to the fan controllers and let the machine choose its own speed accordingly.

 

I take it you did the above mod to the HP fan controller? I am a little confused as to what XeonUnicorn meant when they wrote "the yellows are soldered to one side of the controller PCB to the copper plating as the "chassis" connection" do they mean soldered to ground? If you (correctly) presume that I know nothing, could you explain in simple terms what you did to yours before I disassemble my fan cage? When XeonUnicorn mentioned the pin switches for louvres and bridging them on the pcb, can I then presume these switches to be normally closed? I'm flying a little blind here; turns out biting off and chewing are two different things lol.

 

I have also ordered this lga2011 ILM assembly from Aliexpress. I couldn't find a narrow ILM version, but it looks to me like the baseplate is the only bit that differs between the two assemblies; I'm hoping I can use the cpu retention portion of the assembly to avoid having to use only the cooler to hold the CPU down. only 20 bucks wasted if it cant be used.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000388495792.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.60c751d0Dmqpsl&algo_pvid=8664ccec-3cae-4cf0-aad6-a6e6fa432e5a&algo_exp_id=8664ccec-3cae-4cf0-aad6-a6e6fa432e5a-8&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"10000001587134379"} 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

- James

 

James any updates on the LGA2011 Socket holder? 
 

Thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi NoSkills,

 

Yes I do have an update. It was actually pretty easy to do, although I had to modify the new socket holder as well, since the plates were riveted together. I will explain in plain and great detail. Make a coffee and come back.

 

The socket holder assembly, both existing and new are comprised of 3 main parts:

- The rear support plate, which is mounted at the rear of the motherboard, bolting through the mobo to the frontward assembly. 

- The CPU cooler retention plate. This is the plate that the cooler bolts to

- The CPU retention lid and lever assembly. this is the part of our machine which currently interferes with the cpu cooler being bolted down properly.

 

I measured the thickness of the plate material between the existing assembly and the new one, using a micrometer vernier 0.1mm difference. I think we will be ok!

 

The CPU cooler plate and lid assembly are riveted together. You will need to remove these rivets. It is plain to see that the rear support plate sets the position of the other plates as it bolts though them both. The rivets are not required from a structural perspective.

 

Here are some steps:

- Remove the CPU cooler retention plate and the CPU retention lid assembly from the ML, you can leave the rear support plate in place; it fits the new assembly and you would need to remove the motherboard to get it out.

-On both assemblies new and existing, remove the rivets and separate the parts. I used a small ball-end grinder on a Dremel to shave just the head of the rivets off and a small flat screwdriver to gently pry them apart. Do not lever the plate! if it resists separation, grind a little more of the rivet away and try again. The geometry of that lid will be important so try not to alter it.

- Combine the existing narrow ILM CPU cooler plate with the new CPU lid plate. I lined the rivet holes up with two toothpicks, one in each corner and then wicked superglue in small spots just to hold them together in their correct position whilst bolting.

- Bolt this new assembly down to the rear base plate using the torx screws from the existing assembly. Where possible match fasteners to their respective assemblies.

 

The photos should be fairly self explanatory although not in order.

 

As for the fans, I disassembled most of the fan cage and removed the existing harness and components. In time, I intend to put the fan cage back together, including a circuit i am working on, to have 4x 92mm Noctua fans controlled by the ML350p, for case cooling. 4x fans over the CPU's . I am currently using 2x Noctua FC1 to control the fans in much the same way as Glob did, but I decided to have separate control over the ram and cpu cooling "lanes" see photos attached. Sort of pointless since the fans are so quiet, I just run it at 100% and can barely tell that it is on. Photos attached so you can see the set up.

 

Shout if you want more details, I could disassemble it a bit and take photos of each part in detail if you want.

 

Next, I'll be working on a second CPU, storage, sound and getting some PLC/SCADA stuff set up on it. 

 

 

3 main components. These are the left over parts, for some reason i didn't photograph the right parts together. Ditz

 

20210819_211837.jpg

 

here you can see the rivets drilled out, just beneath the torx bolt

 

20210819_135749.jpg

 

Here you can see an existing, unmodified assembly with the rivets untouched.

 

20210819_135728.jpg

 

Here is the new assembly in place

 

20210819_135446.jpg

 

Picture of the existing assembly reomved with the rear plates bolts exposed

20210819_135424.jpg

Edited by JamesT
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Here is a pic of when it was all stripped out, just ram, 1x cpu, 1x GPU and 4x new fans, 1x HDD

IMG-20210820-WA0000.jpeg

 

 

Below is the HP fan daughter board. For others reading this, take a look at HJB's posts on page 6 for more details. The component is mounted inside the fan cage assembly. The wiring harness and fasteners are easy to get to; you need a soldering iron and some small wire for bridging. I used self vulcanising tape to cover my work, makes it serviceable for the future.

 

20210820_110348.jpg

Edited by JamesT
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