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HP Proliant ML350p G8 Watercooling!


RyanG8
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Ryan,

 

Thank you for that!

 

What I currently have completed is stripping the two ground and the one PWM wire (from a 4 pin sata power cable with the same color layout that plugs snugly into the female socket ignoring the blue frequency wire. Didn't want to cut any wires on the fan chassis just in case it didn't work) and put a twist on wire connector on the ends with shrink tube holding all 3 wires together. 

 

Did this to the first fan in the assembly and tested it with FAN1 removed and everything is working as expected! 

 

One thing I do not understand is how the PWM signal is being spoofed with no hardware/software manipulation and checking the speed of FAN1 via SpeedFan, the RPM of FAN1 is the same as all the other fans (just curious). 😐

 

Never the less I will be working on this further over the weekend, installing four new 2500 RPM fans at 31 dB (Scythe DFS922512M-PWM) and creating a custom fan shroud in order to have the two fans in the middle push air directly through the CPU's for better temps. A type of wind tunnel effect. I have heavy heat temp graded thin plastic that should work perfectly for the design. Hopefully that will keep things cool. Will do a couple monitored stress tests in order to make sure that the fans can handle the workload. 

 

Will keep you posted with photos. 

 

Thank you! 

 

HP_ProLiant_Ml350p_G8_Fan Shroud Design.jpg

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  • 5 months later...

Hello,

 

I read this topic sometime ago and found it was a great idea to change the fan in the PSU but I couldn't find any information just this post... So I was kinda lost, but with the help of friends I found the color code of Nidec Fan. I use a Noctua A4x20.

 

Nidec (HP PSU original fan) <-> Noctua

Black <-> Black

Red <-> Yellow

Blue <-> Green

Yellow <-> Blue

 

More information : Nidec and Noctua cable color code.

 

I hope my post will help someone somehow :D .

 

Sorry if my english is not perfect, I'm a french... =D

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/18/2019 at 3:31 PM, RyanG8 said:

Hi all,

 

We decided to go a different route with the ML350 and picked up a set of Noctua NH-U9DX i4 coolers which come with the correct mounting hardware for 2011 Narrow ILM. These have proven to be even better than water-cooling in this chassis as they create airflow and direct all the warm air out the back of the chassis. We are planning on adding a few 92mm noctua fans in the existing fan cage to help cool the ram and graphics but as it stands it works perfectly.

 

YcNKxIw.jpg

Hello Ryan, Just Recently i got a ML350p as well. and indeed the succer is way to loud. Looking in to getting some Noctuas in there like you did.  Just 1 Question though. Where did you take the PWM signal for the CPU Fans ???  Never mind I overlooked you're using the Corsair Link Controller. I Guess i'll be looking into Drivers for that under Linux

Edited by HJB
Typo
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Hello

 

I recently acquired a 350P G8 for free... and after some discussion with a tech friend I decided that it would be a vast improvement on my old rig from about the same year. It came with a single CPU installed and about 16gig of ram, no system drive and no SAS drives so when I say improvement it meant looking around the shop for a second CPU giving it 2 E5-2620's. Beefed it out to 112gig of ram, 512 SSD for the system and a BD drive for kicks. Now its "improved" lawls.

 

I learned very quickly that even after we had completely stripped it and cleaned every spec of human skin flakes from every crevice it was still considerably "loud".... not unbearable for a short period but as many of you will know not pleasant for extended periods. And thus the quest began. We learned quickly that HP does NOT want to have their jet engines removed so after a few hours of searching we were lead to this post and learned of a way to disable the fans, saved the whole project! Quo dos RynaG8!! :) And so in return I am posting all of this and pics of the 80% completed project.

 

We took the fan disabling a few steps further and removed the cage completely and dismantled the fan connector assembly and rewired it leaving this, more images to follow.

 

20200131_232026.jpg.94b8cc3676e9d6c0f17b145d4140f945.jpg

 

 

In situ:

 

20200131_231914.jpg.04b40433e55e99f4ca867b3b14289ca3.jpg

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With that sorted I had a ton of space to mod for AIO water coolers. A custom bracket was needed and this was affixed in the screw holes for cage mount once it was removed:

20200203_201441.jpg.40b5886fb0123cdb0c5f9f04eeeee3df.jpg

 

20200202_225111.jpg.b85ddc4687a70f84ff0c3877e82ca1da.jpg

 

I modded the front to fit the RGB controller and after some extensive cable management, (not pictured), bingo RGB water cooled 350P :)

 

20200203_201351.thumb.jpg.884c578164a41c184f8af0c4379b9978.jpg

Edited by XeonUnicorn
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33 minutes ago, XeonUnicorn said:

Hello

 

I recently acquired a 350P G8 for free... and after some discussion with a tech friend I decided that it would be a vast improvement on my old rig from about the same year. It came with a single CPU installed and about 16gig of ram, no system drive and no SAS drives so when I say improvement it meant looking around the shop for a second CPU giving it 2 E5-2620's. Beefed it out to 112gig of ram, 512 SSD for the system and a BD drive for kicks. Now its "improved" lawls.

 

I learned very quickly that even after we had completely stripped it and cleaned every spec of human skin flakes from every crevice it was still considerably "loud".... not unbearable for a short period but as many of you will know not pleasant for extended periods. And thus the quest began. We learned quickly that HP does NOT want to have their jet engines removed so after a few hours of searching we were lead to this post and learned of a way to disable the fans, saved the whole project! Quo dos RynaG8!! :) And so in return I am posting all of this and pics of the 80% completed project.

 

We took the fan disabling a few steps further and removed the cage completely and dismantled the fan connector assembly and rewired it leaving this, more images to follow.

 

20200131_232026.jpg.94b8cc3676e9d6c0f17b145d4140f945.jpg

 

 

In situ:

 

20200131_231914.jpg.04b40433e55e99f4ca867b3b14289ca3.jpg

 

Basically the black wires are connected and enclosed in shrink fit, the yellows are soldered to one side of the controller PCB to the copper plating as the "chassis" connection and the controller is earthed back to the chassis via the yellow wire you can see conveniently using a thumb screw into the existing card extender assembly mount. As for the pin switches for the fan louvers they are bridged on the controller using solder, we did this to ensure no erroneous errors in post as we didn't know if the system needs to "see" them also. The whole lot is tucked away under the shrink fit seen in the pic and hot glue was used on one side to make it nice and secure in the MB header.

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@XeonUnicorn I'm glad I was helpful, it's great to see you getting the AIO coolers fitted in there!

 

You might want to keep an eye on your ram temps as mine were getting very toasty when I had the AIO, they got much better when I moved to the noctuas because of the case airflow.

 

I ended up installing a 2690 V2 10 core as I got a good deal on one.

 

For an old machine it packs a punch as long as you don't mind the boot times :)

 

Thanks

Ryan.

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Thanks thanks, it's been frustrating and rewarding. Making the cooler bracket was a pain in the ass and I made a purchasing error and had to make custom retention plates to attach the pumps to the CPU. The look ho hum in the pic and are proof of concept and will be tidied up at some point. I have access to an endless supply of eWaste so it's a matter of waiting for some 2690s to come in and I will sort the retention plates then. 

 

As for the ram the plan is to mount some very low dB 80mm fans that blow air back towards the coolers. With the 2690s I think they are ivy Bridge so the temps will come down again so blowing warm ram air that way shouldn't be an issue. 

 

The final step will be a RX 5700 Xt, we have tested and it will boot with a UEFI GPU. 

 

Currently we are looking into a faster boot process using esxi but it's a lot of research I have to do. 

 

Could you or does anyone know what the J94 header is below the board battery??? 

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Guys,

 

I need some help. Did you successfully install Windows 10 ? Each time I try each time I get an red screen : illegal opcode...

 

My other problem is power up the graphic card... :( My 10 pin to 2x6+2 pin from modular power cable is not compatible with black port on the motherboard. It plugs in white translucide one but are all the wire the same ? Not sure :x .

 

Thanks a lot ;)

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