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Ikon-TNG

Windows 10 NIC teaming

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Ikon-TNG

There I go not explaining things properly... again.

 

The picture frame is network capable, meaning pictures can be loaded onto it remotely. It used to allow for loading pictures from gmail account emails, but google changed something in the way their email works and the picture frame can no longer connect.

 

Anywho, I can connect to the picture frame over the Internet from my house and upload photos. However, her very, very tiny network uses a different range of IP addresses from mine, so I had to add an address to my computer so I could talk to the frame when I was trying to get the email loading working which, as I said, failed.

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itGeeks

Sorry I still don't understand why you would need a second IP address to manage the frame? I do understand about gmail or something google not working anymore but that still does not explain the 2nd IP address, Could you explain in more detail??

 

1) What is the make and model of the frame?

2) What are you using to remote into your mothers network?

3) Please explain the workflow you where/are using to manage the frame?

 

I think you have complicated this more then need be but till I fully understand what your doing I won't know for sure. Most picture frames have a portal by the company hew made them and as such management is done by logging into the portal to manage it. Again I need to know the make/model of the picture frame to see why you needed to setup a 2nd IP to manage it. All things aside it you needed a 2nd IP then you should have a second NIC in the management computer connecting to more then one network.

 

Edited by itGeeks

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Ikon-TNG

The frame is no longer made. It's an eStarling (I had to go look that up after your previous post :) ). I don't know the model #.

 

I am using FireFox to connect to the frame. I was able, after some trial and error, to get my mother's Cisco cable modem to forward port 80 to the frame's IP, so I can connect to it using a browser.

 

I cannot actually manage the frame; I can only upload photos. The interface doesn't even allow me to delete photos.

 

While I was trying to 'troubleshoot' the email issue I had the frame at my place. I didn't want to make changes to the frame's network configuration, in case it wouldn't work back at my mother's condo, so I made it so my desktop could talk to the frame using it's own network addressing.

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itGeeks

If it's a cloud frame and its accessible from the internet over port 80 I don't see why you would need to have 2nd IP address. Maybe I am just not understanding here? If the frame is no longer made and the native way of connecting to it for management aka (Google) then it sounds like its time to retire it and get something new. If you don't want to replace it then a better way would be to use something like TeamViewer or Chrome Remote Desktop to login to your mothers network and manage it with that eliminating the need for multiple IP's that as you have seen will cause problems... Just my two cents^_^

 

The digital picture frames that I been using are by Nixplay, They work very good and they are updating them all the time and adding new features, There are others out there also that get good reviews, see below-

 

https://best.offers.com/best-digital-picture-frames?path=zbe-21677-cog-100f1a&adposition=1t2&creative=248576640420&device=c&network=g&source=s&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwp_UBRD7ARIsAMie3XanuI662xk2leu2_c84-B9YAd5-3Q3-g7UAVD0cSVuyP6uFrEWpNGUaAgvMEALw_wcB

 

https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-digital-photo-frames?id=adw&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwp_UBRD7ARIsAMie3XYna04KCCmNen5-2Ym8HAnX2oUt8_h22ehUKCIQQQTeUiqQJ0PW6H0aAg3hEALw_wcB

 

I been thinking about trying one of these, It offers DLNA so you can pull pictures form your network such as a NAS. It got high marks on Amazon 4 and a half stars from 1,715 people..

Edited by itGeeks

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Ikon-TNG

Hmmm, I think this is getting too complicated. Maybe it would help if I stated more clearly that I only added the 2nd IP address because I was testing at home. In other words, the 2nd IP was strictly temporary. I don't need it anymore. I just forgot to delete it from my desktop configuration.

 

As far as replacing the frame is concerned, well, my mother is very elderly. Obviously I want her to keep living; I'm just saying she will probably go before the frame quits working. Such is life.

 

There is no native way of connecting to the frame to manage it. You use the frame's touchscreen to configure and manage it.

 

As far as my understanding goes, there is no way to log into my mother's network. There are zero computers on her LAN. There is the picture frame and a printer that I can remote print to if I need to send her a hardcopy of something. That's it.

 

I had a look at some of the frames you linked to. I saw 2 issues right away:

  1. They only seem to be WiFi. That won't work in her condo. There is so much WiFi around her that it's impossible to get a solid connection to a wireless router. My mother's current frame has both WiFi and wired Ethernet. For a few years after we gave it to her, it worked fine on WiFi. That's when there was nowhere near as much WiFi in the building. She started complaining the frame wasn't working. After much head scratching, we figured out it was a WiFi connectivity problem. It works fine with an Ethernet cable. One of the clues to what was wrong was that the frame would work a little better, but still not reliably, in some areas of the condo vs other areas.
     
  2. She would freak out if I installed a frame that stores photos in the cloud. She has zero trust of the Internet and thinks it's a privacy nightmare (yes, she watches a lot of news ;) )

And listen, if I haven't said it, I very much appreciate the time you've taken to help out. Every time I come here, I'm amazed by the friendliness and helpfulness of the members.

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itGeeks

Gotcha, Now I understand. This is exactly why I never ever 'hard code' an IP address into any device, We need to allow the devices to roam off network and allow easy management of IP assignments. You are better off setting up 'Static DHCP' threw the router and leaving the clients set to DHCP, Then you would not have to do anything when you connected it to your network.

 

Moving on to your WiFI troubles with the picture frame. I love this topic, There is something to be learned all the time. Your mother is in a condo so I understand is a dense aria for WiFI and adjustments need to be made in order to get reliable WiFi but I have so I have some questions-

 

1) What is the make and model of the wireless router?

2) How did you determine it was congested WiFi causing the trouble and not a faulty picture frame?

 

There is no doubt there is lots of WiFI in your mothers condo and in situations like this adjustments need to be made. Companies love when customers post that there WiFi covers there entire yard and four houses down with one wireless router or WAP's and as such they pump up the power to max and also set the 2.4 GHz with to 20/40/auto, That is a very bad thing, This would be fine if you live in the country and your neighbors are 1 mile a way but its very bad when you live in heavy populated arias such as condo's.

 

Here is what I would like you to do, If for no other reason it will be a very good learning experience. 

 

1) Login to the wireless router and check the properties for the 2.4 GHz channel and see what the 'channel with' is set at, Make sure its set at 20MHz only, Yes this is going to slow down your WiFi but its going to help get stable WiFi (its a trade off)

2) See if you can turn down the output power on the 2.4 GHz band to low to start off with and walk around the entire aria where you need coverage and see if you get coverage, If it does not cover it then set it to medium and recheck it.

 

3) After you get the bare minimum needed with power download an app called "WiFi Analyzer" available on Android, If you have iOS there are others but I can't help, Sorry I stay clear of anything Apple. That app will show you the channel your on and let you know if there is a better channel if so change your channel to the recommended channel and see if your wireless is more reliable, There are only three none overlapping channels on the 2.4 channels 1,6 and 11 but the app may suggest something other so just role with it.

 

If you do everything I said you shoud be in much better shape when you get done providing the trouble you where having was not a defective picture frame and was a congested WiFi situation.

 

On closing the 2.4 GHz is very powerful and if not setup correctly could cause you many problems with reliability and performance, The 5GHz band is not a problem in most cases because there are a lot more channels but the coverage does not travel as far and that's by nature and is a good thing. Think about it this way, There are two of us talking at a restraint and we can here each other but once more people come in there talking so we raise our voice now those people have to raise there voice and before you know it nobody can hear, Thats the way WiFi works. 5GHz is a god sin but not all devices support it so we have to tune the 2.4 GHz band so we don't here the others talking and in affect we can now here the conversation giving us better WiFi. By turning down the power and selecting the right channel you will reduce the chance of hearing your neighbors thus giving you better WiFi

 

Edited by itGeeks

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Ikon-TNG

0) Reserved IP addresses are what I use on my LAN for almost all my devices. But, with the picture frame, I really did not want to mess with it getting an address from my DHCP server. The frame has caused me enough grief already; I don't want to even give it a chance to cause more. That's why I stuck with a static IP on it and added another IP to my desktop.

 

The biggest issue with this frame is it works perfectly at my place (a single family house) but goes completely sideways at my mother's. I've spent I don't know how may hours on it so far. We gave to her as a birthday gift; now I'm regretting it.

 

1) the router is the Cisco cable modem that's provided by the ISP. I don't recall the model for certain, but I think it's a DPC3825. Anyway, it looks like this: Cisco cable modem

 

2) Two things:

     1) the frame works flawlessly using wireless at my place. 'Course, I'm in a single family house, and there's very little interference around.

     2) at my mother's the level of interference (i.e. the ability of the frame to actually boot up into its slideshow mode) varies significantly with where it's positioned in the condo. There is no location where it works reliably but, in some locations, it will at least get to the slideshow -- just not reliably (works this time; not the next; then works again the next).

 

1) I could check the router properties when I'm at the condo again. However, I would have to take the frame apart again to re-enable the wireless. I actually had to go in and disconnect the antenna inside the frame in order for it not to get stuck looking for a wireless connection every time it booted.

 

2) not sure what I would use to check for area coverage.

 

3) I don't have Android or iOS. I could look for something that runs on Windows. However, I should point something else out. I have a wireless adapter that allows me to connect my Surface Pro to my mother's TV, so I can show her things on the Internet. It's a small receiver I got from the Microsoft Store. It works perfectly at home, and at my mother-in-law's (who also has a single family house). However, it also no longer works at my mother's. I had to get a long-ish HDMI cable so I can hook up to my mother's TV.

 

 

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ShadowPeo
On 2/9/2018 at 11:56 PM, itGeeks said:

Whenever a system is going to be used as a server always try and use a Intel NIC, Not to sound snarky there is a reason server manufactures in most cases stick to Intel. You will have the least amount of problems... I cringe when I see a Realtek NIC in a system...

 

I hate Broadcom and Qualcomm Atheros where it comes to WiFi networks. I have had major PITA issues with these, one particularly peculiar  issue came when you used RADIUS Authentication on Cisco devices with the client being Windows 8 and having a Broadcom Card, the drivers were borked, and you had to force an install of the Windows 7 drivers to fix it

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itGeeks
On 2/18/2018 at 7:43 PM, Ikon-TNG said:

0) Reserved IP addresses are what I use on my LAN for almost all my devices. But, with the picture frame, I really did not want to mess with it getting an address from my DHCP server. The frame has caused me enough grief already; I don't want to even give it a chance to cause more. That's why I stuck with a static IP on it and added another IP to my desktop.

I do the same thing, Anything that lives on my network gets assigned a static IP, Some say its a wast of time for anything other then 'servers', 'printers. I say its good housekeeping.

Quote

 

The biggest issue with this frame is it works perfectly at my place (a single family house) but goes completely sideways at my mother's. I've spent I don't know how may hours on it so far. We gave to her as a birthday gift; now I'm regretting it.

 

1) the router is the Cisco cable modem that's provided by the ISP. I don't recall the model for certain, but I think it's a DPC3825. Anyway, it looks like this: Cisco cable modem

 

2) Two things:

     1) the frame works flawlessly using wireless at my place. 'Course, I'm in a single family house, and there's very little interference around.

     2) at my mother's the level of interference (i.e. the ability of the frame to actually boot up into its slideshow mode) varies significantly with where it's positioned in the condo. There is no location where it works reliably but, in some locations, it will at least get to the slideshow -- just not reliably (works this time; not the next; then works again the next).

 

1) I could check the router properties when I'm at the condo again. However, I would have to take the frame apart again to re-enable the wireless. I actually had to go in and disconnect the antenna inside the frame in order for it not to get stuck looking for a wireless connection every time it booted.

 

2) not sure what I would use to check for area coverage.

 

3) I don't have Android or iOS. I could look for something that runs on Windows. However, I should point something else out. I have a wireless adapter that allows me to connect my Surface Pro to my mother's TV, so I can show her things on the Internet. It's a small receiver I got from the Microsoft Store. It works perfectly at home, and at my mother-in-law's (who also has a single family house). However, it also no longer works at my mother's. I had to get a long-ish HDMI cable so I can hook up to my mother's TV

\

I can't help but to think the wireless router maybe on its way out. Next time you go to your mothers please follow my suggestions--

 

1) Check the channel width, Set it for 20MHz only on the 2.4 band

2) if your able lower the transmit power as low as you can.

3) Run a WiFI Analyzer and set the channel based on results, For Windows try this

4) After you have done all the above open am elevated command prompt on windows and run an extended ping to the routers IP address and see if you get any drop packets. Run the ping when your connected to WiFi. ex: ping 192.168.1.1 -n 200

Then see what the results are, Should be 200 sent, 200 received, zero loss. If you have lots of dropped packets then as the saying goes, Time to trash it and get a new one.;)

Edited by itGeeks

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Ikon-TNG

I’ve been looking for a way to give back to the forums. I’m not sure, but I may have found a small way. As anyone who's read this thread knows, I’ve been interested in the issue of network speeds, and the problems with 10/5/2.5 gigabit as far as cost is concerned. I have to say I’m a bit disappointed that the costs have not come down faster than they have.
 

With that in mind, I’ve been searching and reading on other ways to speed up LAN speeds. Along the way I discovered something called SMB-3. I’m sure most of you know about it, but it was new to me and it sounded interesting. In particular, I was interested in the way it can boost network speeds while using ordinary 1 gigabit network interfaces, but grouping them together and treating them as 1. It sounded a lot like DrivePool-for-networking to me. Also, I’ve read that, with Windows 10, SMB-3 has been improved quite a bit, and it also is pretty much self-configuring, even being enabled by default. I wanted to know more.
 

So, yesterday, I picked up 2 new Intel Gigabit Desktop Adapters, model EXP1930CTBLK. They cost a whopping $39.99CAD each!
 

I decided to conduct some tests.
 

I planned to use a large file copy operation to see how fast the LAN could go. The idea was to use RoboCopy to copy a number of files that make up a movie from my Windows 10 desktop to my Windows 10 server. There were 6x1.9GB files, and 1 about 1GB. RoboCopy is handy to use, partly because it gives start and end times for its jobs.
 

For the first test I copied the files from my desktop’s DrivePool data pool, using only its RealTek PCIe GBE 8168 NIC, to my server’s DrivePool data pool, using only the server’s Marvell Yukon 88E8057 NIC. The copy took 4:57.
 

For the next test I installed an Intel EXP1930CTBLK card into the server. I copied the files again from my desktop’s DrivePool data pool, using only its RealTek PCIe GBE 8168 NIC, to my server’s DrivePool data pool, using only the server’s new Intel EXP1930CTBLK NIC. The copy took 4:11. Certainly an improvement, but not earth shattering.
 

For the 3rd test, I connected both the Yukon and Intel NICs in the server to the Ethernet switch. I did the same file copy and it took 4:02. I consider this marginal improvement at best, and maybe within the margin of error.
 

For the 4th test I installed another Intel EXP1930CTBLK into the server, primarily to see if the Yukon NIC was a significant bottleneck. The same copy took 4:04; so, basically the same. It appeared the Yukon NIC was not a problem.
 

For the 5th test, I enabled IP6 on both Intel NICs in the server. The copy took 4:02 again, so no significant difference.
 

Then I connected both NICs on my desktop to the switch. File copy test 6 still took 4:03, so it seemed the 2nd NIC made no difference.
 

This got me curious. How could I check to see if both NICs were actually being used? Some more Internet searching led me to the simplest answer I could imagine: just use the Performance tab in Task Manager. Look at the Ethernet windows. I did that and could see very clearly that only 1 of the NICs was being used. I tried to see if I could install a 2nd Intel EXP1930CTBLK into the desktop, but there are no free slots. So, I searched some more and found an updated driver for the RealTek PCIe GBE 8168 NIC. I installed it and tried a partial test. This time it was very clear that both NICs were in use, each pushing data across the network at between 200 & 300 Mb/sec.
 

I tried the file copy again. The test 7 time dropped to 3:40. Clearly, having the 2nd NIC was making a difference.

But, while watching the copy process, I noticed something: the hard drive LED on my desktop computer was glowing bright red, with absolutely no flickering at all. While searching the Internet, I’d run into mention of something called I/O Bound. To me, it sounded like something couldn’t go any faster because something in the copy path wasn’t able to go faster. In this case it seemed to me it was my DrivePooled hard drives.
 

So, I copied the entire folder of files to my SSD and tried test 8. The copy time dropped again: to 2:08. To me, this was real progress; less than half the time I started out with.
 

For test 9, my final test, I copied the files from my desktop SSD to my server SSD. The time dropped again: to 1:20!! :D That’s less than a 3rd of my original time. This is awesome.
 

From the time I’ve spent in the DrivePool forums I’ve learned that it’s possible to use an SSD as a ‘cache’ for a DP pool. I’m going to look into that further, to see if it would be worth getting an SSD or 2 to be cache drives. I can get a Kingston SSDnow 120GB SSD for $56CAD, shipping included.
 

I apologise if this is all old hat to all of you. Hopefully, at least 1 person might find it useful

 

 

Edited by Ikon-TNG

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