As in screenshot the Network cards of the Gen10 are shown in the removable list... As you can see I have the latest drivers and firmware for the two cards. This is a very annoying issue since you can accidentally lose network connectivity while ejecting an external USB device.
FYI the four disks installed at the front bays (Marvell controller) had the same issue but I fixed it by following MS's article:
I've been a big fan of this product and have it running in my home. It's now $20 off if you follow this link.
There is an Amazon link to buy it and December 17th to 22nd it will also be $20 off on the Circle website. So heads up!
Take a look at the video below for a better understanding of what it can do for you. In my house, if anything hops on my wifi the box will notify me immediately. I've set it up so anything that jumps on is put in a KID friendly profile. I look at what they are seeing on their iPads and can turn off apps. YouTube, Safari, App Store = Off.
I have the following setup at home (See pic)
I have come back to my server after 1 year. I need some advice as I think I could be doing things better. The main goal is to improve performance in a cost effective way and do things more efficiently.
My main use is rapidly download ISO's and cloning baseline VM's to run new test VM's in my lab with test domain.
If i could get a built in NAS or something on the server that would be good but I have read that FreeNas is best run on bare metal.
I think I want SSD storage for VM's and 2TB SATA to be used as shared storage across the network. Will I need to get 2 SSD's for RAID 0 is this recommended?
I originally purchased only 1 x 2TB SATA as it is just a home lab for testing VM's on and I couldn't afford a bunch of SSD's.
This is setup as 2 logical drives on the Smart Array B120i. I know there are other options in BIOS:
Enable SATA Legacy support
Enable SATA AHCI support
Do I need to enable these instead of B120i what is the difference?
I use virtualbox on my laptop and some VM's if I am away from home or mainly because i don't want the server running all the time due to power consumption?
Am I being silly here is the laptop drawing similar power to the server or is it a lot less?
My Buffalo NAS is very slow on the network and unreliable even though it is supposed to be Gigabit which is why I am now use 2TB Seagate external.
In ESXi the VM options has a selection for SCSI controller:
LSI Logic SAS
LSI Logic Parallel
Do you know what the difference is and which one I need to use for best performance? Is this different for SATA and SSD disks?
Has anyone seen the Sense home energy monitor? I stumbled across it today while looking up some other stuff on the internet.
I am quite curious about this product and the claims it is making. By placing a set of current probes on the primary conductor lines that bring power into your home this device is supposed to be able to recognize when devices turn ON/OFF. It claims to be able to sense common household appliances like washers, dryers and refrigerators. Here is the full description from the web site.
Every electrical device has a unique electronic signature — its own voice. There is a noisy conversation happening inside your home as every device that’s turned on is talking. All of them. All at once.
The Sense home energy monitor listens to those voices through current sensors on the main breakers in your electric panel. It records them millions of times per second. We then apply multidomain device signature detection algorithms to distinguish one appliance from another — to recognize each individual voice.
Right now this product is in the early launch stage. It looks like it is pushing data to a cloud and then an iOS app pulls the data down for you to view. It's not inexpensive at the current price of $199.
I am really curious what it is able to do and what it can tell me (especially about the energy use of my major appliances). I would definitely like something that can tell my wife how much it costs to run the dryer an extra 20 minutes just to fluff the clothes that were left in over night and got wrinkled.
So...I decided to place an order for one. It says it may be June before I get this unit but once it arrives I will report back on how it works.
Many of the light switches in my home are connected to 20A circuit breakers, and unfortunately the Z-wave and ZigBee automated switches that I've found are only rated for 15A (if any amperage rating is listed at all). Does anyone know of a model z-wave or zigbee switch or dimmer that is rated for use on a 20A circuit?
If there aren't 20A switches available, do electrical codes allow 15A switches on a 20A line if there are only lights controlled by the switch? My understanding was that a 15A switch could not be used on a 20A line because a short could burn out the switch before tripping the breaker and start a fire.