As in screenshot the Network cards of the Gen10 are shown in the removable list... As you can see I have the latest drivers and firmware for the two cards. This is a very annoying issue since you can accidentally lose network connectivity while ejecting an external USB device.
FYI the four disks installed at the front bays (Marvell controller) had the same issue but I fixed it by following MS's article:
I've been a big fan of this product and have it running in my home. It's now $20 off if you follow this link.
There is an Amazon link to buy it and December 17th to 22nd it will also be $20 off on the Circle website. So heads up!
Take a look at the video below for a better understanding of what it can do for you. In my house, if anything hops on my wifi the box will notify me immediately. I've set it up so anything that jumps on is put in a KID friendly profile. I look at what they are seeing on their iPads and can turn off apps. YouTube, Safari, App Store = Off.
I have the following setup at home (See pic)
I have come back to my server after 1 year. I need some advice as I think I could be doing things better. The main goal is to improve performance in a cost effective way and do things more efficiently.
My main use is rapidly download ISO's and cloning baseline VM's to run new test VM's in my lab with test domain.
If i could get a built in NAS or something on the server that would be good but I have read that FreeNas is best run on bare metal.
I think I want SSD storage for VM's and 2TB SATA to be used as shared storage across the network. Will I need to get 2 SSD's for RAID 0 is this recommended?
I originally purchased only 1 x 2TB SATA as it is just a home lab for testing VM's on and I couldn't afford a bunch of SSD's.
This is setup as 2 logical drives on the Smart Array B120i. I know there are other options in BIOS:
Enable SATA Legacy support
Enable SATA AHCI support
Do I need to enable these instead of B120i what is the difference?
I use virtualbox on my laptop and some VM's if I am away from home or mainly because i don't want the server running all the time due to power consumption?
Am I being silly here is the laptop drawing similar power to the server or is it a lot less?
My Buffalo NAS is very slow on the network and unreliable even though it is supposed to be Gigabit which is why I am now use 2TB Seagate external.
In ESXi the VM options has a selection for SCSI controller:
LSI Logic SAS
LSI Logic Parallel
Do you know what the difference is and which one I need to use for best performance? Is this different for SATA and SSD disks?
By David Ellwood
I have an HP Mediasmart homeserver that I've had for a number of years. In the past few weeks I took everything off, wiped the three supplementary drives and reinstalled them, and ran error checks/defragments/bad sector locators on all the drives including the OS drive. I have been transferring on content for a while, but the connection in the past 24 hours has become appalling. I am using the same setup on my PC (It's not my PC from what I can see, Task Manager doesn't show any throttling on this side and it's ethernet connected). The homeserver is connected via ethernet to the master hub router, as is my PC. It went from regularly 60MB/s mark two days ago to now trailing at anything from 2MB/s to 500kB/s, but it suddenly peaks up every now and then to anything from 10-60MB/s for a few seconds.
I've checked everything I can and I can't see any reason for this sudden balls-up. The homeserver has not been moved or changed hardware wise, the router hub hasn't had any new connections and no one is streaming.
I can't even stream SD video that is on the server at the moment.
There shouldn't be any copying on the server as it's just set up as a straight 3TB set up, no backup etc (that I will set up later). I can't see it being disk balancing or anything of that sort as I haven't put on that much data. I can't even log in to remote console or remote desktop.
Any help gladly received.
(I didn't see where you may have started a threat on this..)
Suggestions for connectivity between your new pool house and main house:
Simplest would be to go wireless (which I know you do not prefer). If you end up going this route, I would suggest getting a point-to-point wireless bridge. Luxul and other companies make these products. They include a pair of WiFi radios with focused antennas (instead of typical omnidirectional antennas) and outdoor enclosures. Put an Ethernet switch on each end and treat is as a transparent "wire" between the two locations.
If you do trench and pull cable, I'm sure you know the "rule of thumb" to always pull at least two of every cable, every when you think you only need one. If you plan on pulling Ethernet and coax, then at least two of each. Go for the highest rating (cat 6E ?) and highest quality cables. Material cost is a one-time thing but the labor and effort is something you want to last many many years and not have to re-do in the future because of an "oops".
Because a pool house to main house is probably a relatively short run, and is only a single point=to-point connection, I would strongly advise running at least a pair of fiber optic cables also. With only one run, the fiber cost will be reasonable (versus wiring a large port of a house, etc.) and there is so much versatility. Even if you don't use it initially, you have the potential to push anything through a fiber - unlimited video, audio, data, etc. and not have to use any compromise solutions like video-over-IP or HDMI/CEC-over-IP, etc.
For security and IP cameras, books have been written but I would advise considering only cameras that are ONVIF compatible so they can be used with many different front-end apps, applications, or NVR (network video recorder) systems.
FOR NVR, (to keep everything in-house and not pay monthly cloud or hosting fees), the two programs I have used are Blue Iris (for the PC), and Security Spy (for Mac). Both of these are awesome with lots of configuration options and many different ways they can be used. Both of them will give you the "live video multi-camera display in a grid" on your computer that you are looking for.
Last thoughts - SD definition cameras are still cheaper than 720p or 1080p HD cameras. If you are going to use a lot of cameras (4 or 8 or more) consider carefully if you really need all of them to be HD. with SD cameras you will save a lot of money on the cameras, and have less bandwidth (and less storage) to handle their streaming output.
Finally, I would advise paying a little extra to get cameras with H.264 hardware encoding built-in. This will reduce the bandwidth over your LAN and allow the NVR software applications to handle more cameras simultaneously as a lot of the initial video processing is offloaded to the camera itself.