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Very first attempt at home network server


ajac63
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ajac63, you still haven't answered itGeek's question, which is quite an important one, to offer you better assistance.

Can you look on the Netgear router, find the model number, and post it here? N300 is just a standard for wireless, it is not a true model number. There should be a sticker on the Netgear product that says "Model Number" and then provides it. Usually with Netgear, it is 3-4 letters followed by 3-4 numbers.

 

For example, the Netgear WNDR3700 is just one of dozens of router model numbers.

He posted it earlier in the thread.
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He posted it earlier in the thread.

 

Quite right you are, I missed it. Ajac63, my apologies.

 

The NGN2200 .  Lovely; looks a lot like the rather nice routers that Charter provided, made by Netgear, with a crippled firmware that took away some of the advance features, making them less so.  I hope the performance is better than I think it is.

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Quite right you are, I missed it. Ajac63, my apologies.

 

The NGN2200 .  Lovely; looks a lot like the rather nice routers that Charter provided, made by Netgear, with a crippled firmware that took away some of the advance features, making them less so.  I hope the performance is better than I think it is.

Looking at some of the reviews I don't think the performance is better then you think. A better option for the OP would be http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BR3XGP0?tag=price222-20&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and it would save on monthly fees. That router the OP has is a bit aged and for sure will be a bottleneck at some point. The OP needs to understand that the router & switches used is the heart of the network kind of like the foundation on a house, If you go cheap and or use products that are dated or not up to the task the house falls down. We have all giving him great advice such as schooondoggy telling him to contact the service provider and see if he can get an updated router or better yet save on fees and purchase his own such as the one I posted above. Best way I can put this is the router is the footing for the foundation on the house the switch is the cinder-blocks, If the footing is weak it wont hold the cinder-blocks, If the cinder-blocks are weak it wont hold the framing for the house and so on.

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I learned long ago to never use a router provided buy the ISP.  Too many backdoors and poor performance.

Right but in some cases you can't avoid keeping them in the network but that does not stop you from doing a DMZ and hanging your router off that, This is what i do and it works great. Verizon FiOs is one such case. If you have there TV and or phone service there router needs to be online.

Edited by itGeeks
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  • 4 weeks later...

Ethernet wifi adaptor? I use one at home, it's a TPLink TL-MR3020.  It's one of those multi-function wifi routers, but I can just plug it in to a PC, job done.  I use it all the time when I'm fixing PCs in places with no ethernet, all it needs is a short patch lead and is powered off a USB.  No drivers required.

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Ethernet wifi adaptor? I use one at home, it's a TPLink TL-MR3020.  It's one of those multi-function wifi routers, but I can just plug it in to a PC, job done.  I use it all the time when I'm fixing PCs in places with no ethernet, all it needs is a short patch lead and is powered off a USB.  No drivers required.

So your subnetting the subnet the PC is using?

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So your subnetting the subnet the PC is using?

The 3020 has its own static IP, and anything plugged in to it gets a DHCP lease from my router. The PC is oblivious to the 3020, it just thinks it's connected directly to the switch.

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So if you're connecting this box to a PC, what purpose is it serving?

Er...it's giving a PC that only has ethernet network access via wireless. It isn't rocket science.

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